There is a place up north of Manila where you can relax and have all the peace and quiet in this world. If you love the sun, sand and sea, this spot is perfect for you. If you know how to surf, we've just rediscovered heaven.
La Union, one of the premiere and oldest surf spots in the Philippines, is fast shaping up to be the next surfing Mecca in this part of Asia. La Union's surfing history dates back late in the 1970s when the Americans were stationed in the different U.S. bases like Subic, Camp John Hay & Wallace air base. During their leisure hours, the big beach boys of America would often hang out in the beaches of this province and were the first ones who discovered the surf. Soon, word spread out like wildfire to every American serviceman, especially those who loved to surf. To the young locals back then who watched these big "kids" ride, the sport of surfing was something new. Little by little, people came to appreciate and "feel" the passion and sense of freedom of the sport.
After the discovery of Cloud 9, foreign surfers shifted to Siargao and most of the surfing spots declined, especially places like Puraran with its well-known Majestic, in Catanduanes island. Nobody goes there anymore except for some few freak surfers.(Note 1) But La Union's beauty could not just be ignored. Still, many foreign surfers, most especially longboarders, really have come to love the place.
It was about five years ago when I first surfed in La Union. I used to be the only surfer who carried a 9ft. surfboard back then. Nowadays, many longboarders frequent the place. We have just concluded recently and for the first time a longboard competition, and the main organizers of the event were all longboard freaks who loved to surf in La Union.
In my years as a surfer and with the other places I have been throughout the world, I would affirm that La Union is the best surf spot for longboard surfing in the Philippines and the quality of the wave is world-class. Most of the other surf points are shallow reef breaks and the hollow waves are really challenging. Compared to other spots, surfing in La Union is easier and more relaxing.
Adding to that, there is more to this place's waves that keeps people coming back. I think it is in the atmosphere, wind, air and the warm people of La Union. San Juan town, just minutes away from San Fernando City, is a mellow, easy, peaceful and comfortable place. The main surf point here is Monaliza Point. I have found this place very safe, and I usually sleep in the beach and watch the stars until the break of dawn.
This place brings us back in time to the atmosphere of the 1950s, in the north shore of Hawaii. In those days, the pioneer surfers from California went to surf and surfed and surfed. In La Union, you can do that, too.
Peter Drouyn, a legendary Australian master surfer in the 1970s, has been attracted to this kind of atmosphere La Union brings. He even bought an island together with his friend Bryan, and named it Drouyn Island. Of course, the island had excellent waves, too.
Dick Hoole, another Australian and one of the most famous surfing filmakers, (Hoole/McCoy Films), is now a regular and he frequently takes pictures and videos of the place. His famous movies include "Stormriders" in 1982 and "Tubular Swells" in 1976. (Dick is a quiet and mellow person, a very nice guy. Once, he got my video camera and took shots of me while I was riding. For someone of Dick's caliber, that was quite an opportunity. Thanks, Dick.)
Monaliza point's waves look like Malibu, even with small swells. The quality of the wave is also like Malibu. From one to four feet breaks ( note 2 ). The Surfer magazine was quoted as it described..., "The Monaliza point in La Union is one of the premier spots in the Philippines. It catches swells like a giant magnet, good power on winter north swells with jacking peaks, long walls and an inside bowl, all rights. There is a growing number of local surfers in this area between Monaliza's and Bacnotan is a long beach with some breaks over sand bars, best for beginners."
This spot is available all year round. Best season is from the end of October to the end of January. In the peak season, the waves get to 3 to 5 feet or close out. When this point closes out, our favorite point alternative starts to break. Just minutes away from Monalisa, Car-rille, becomes our secret point. We call it our "1 km. point." Everybody really waits for this point to break, because when it starts to break you can have a long ride, at least 500 meters, if you are good. During such time, Car-rille's waves could be compared to those of Rincon, one of the classic points in California. Do you think I am exaggerating? Come and see the waves for yourself.
How to get to La Union
La Union is located northwest of Manila, facing the China Sea. It takes 4 hours drive by car, 6 hrs. by bus. All buses going to the north heading for Laoag City pass by the world-famous beaches of Bauang and San Fernando City. From San Fernando, it would take only minutes for one to reach the Monaliza point, which is also located along the national highway.
Bus companies include Farinas, Viron, Partas, Maria de Leon and Philippine Rabbit. I recommend Partas bus which has its station in Cubao, Quezon City. They have clean air-con buses every one hour and I recommend you should go by night time, so you could reach La Union in the morning. Bring a jacket and long pants because most of the buses plying the route are as cold as freezer.
There are only five resorts at the main surfing place in Urbiztondo, San juan, La Union: They are Todd's, Australian La Union Surf Resort (formerly Surf Camp), Hacienda Beach Resort and Monaliza Cottage, owned by Germans, filipino owned Se-Bay Resort, and Blue Heaven.
However, there are lots of hotels and resorts in San Fernando and Bauang, which is just minutes away, like Bali Hai, China Sea, Villa Estrella and Long Beach Resort Hotel.
Local Surfers
When I first visited La Union, there were just a few local surfers and their skills level were considered as beginners class. Right now, the number of local surfers would go around 30 and their competitive levels have radically gone up. Their skills may now compare with the Baler locals in Quezon, in my book the strongest surfing group in the Philippines.
There are three young and promising surfers in La Union--Ian Saguan, Luky Landrigan and Cally Horst. These three young surfers, I think, will one day become the next big names of the Philippine surfing scene. They have the attitude to become world-class competitors and lately, they have already won many titles. My dream is to bring them to world-class competitions.
Ian Saguan is the title holder of the 1998 Action Asia Aurora Cup (junior class), 1999 La Union Longboard open Champion (Filipino class), and finished 2nd place in the 3rd Aurora Cup '99.
Luky Landrigan bagged the Junior Champion title of the Quicksilver Philippine National Championship of La Union '97 and was the 3rd Aurora Cup '99 Junior Champion.
One-Legged Surfer
Ronnie Esquivel is already famous in the Philippines as the "one-legged surfer". Ronnie grew up and learn to ride the waves of La Union. Despite his disability, he has proven to many that surfing is for everybody. He plays the games other kids of his age play. But on top of the surfboard, he is a marvel to watch. And his playmates--they watch him surf, and he rides better than most of them, as others could just watch with disbelief in their eyes. His unique talent has gotten wide media publicity and according to him, surfing has changed his life for the better.
Youngest Filipina Surfer
Mara Yokohama almost never misses out surfing in La Union, not because Hiroshi Yokohama is the founder and Chief sensei Of the Yokohama Surfing School (YSS). She just fell in love with surfing when she started at 5. Now, the seven-year-old Yokohama is a considered as the youngest Filipina surfer.
Oldest Surfer in the Philippines
Bryan Landrigan is a 62-year-old Australian, who has chosen the Philippines as his last destination. The guy is just full of surprises. Every day he paddles for two hours from shore to horizon. Little do people know that Landrigan is the world champion of the Iron Man (over 60 category, Oct.1998), Paddle Board world champion (over 60 category) in South Africa '96 and Wind Surfing Champion of New Zealand in '98.
He is also one of the pioneer surfers in La Union. 17 years ago he came to the Islands and started out as an instructor of windsurfing. Currently, he owns China Sea and La Union Surf Resort.
Yokohama Surfing School (YSS)
Being the founder of the first and only surfing school in the Philippines in 1997, I asked good friend Kazuo "Aki" Akinaga what good things we could do for the Philippines and we came up with an idea of helping propagate surfing in the country since there wasn't much drive and push that will bring surfing's potentials alive. With our 25 years of surfing experience, Aki and I think we could give a lot to the sport we love. Surfing for us has been a lifestyle.
Currently, more than 400 students have taken the classes under the supervision of YSS instructors Akinaga, Ian Saguan, John Lupera and yours truly.
Aside from cultivating a healthy mind, body and spirit, we also emphasize on the youth, the importance of communing with nature. With the school, we have helped encourage other business ventures and bring livelihood opportunities to local surfers.
We have also lined up other surfing adventures and study trips to our students in other surfing spots like Baler in Quezon, Catanduanes and Siargao Island especially when La Union goes off-season (months of April to June). Likewise, we have already established a children's surf camp.
For more information, check the webpage at http://www.yokohamasurf.com.ph and e-mail at yokohama@info.com.ph or call tel. no.(632) 726-6085 or fax at (632) 414-4049.
Other secret spots
Aside from surfing, there are many other entertainment themes around and nearby La Union like diving, fishing, hiking and others. And if you are bored in the beach you can climb up the mountain provinces. Baguio City is less than an hour's drive from La Union. But, to a true blue surfer, the idea of the mountains is not much appreciated because a surfer always thinks of the waves.
Then, how about night surfing? The Poro point is the secret spot for monomaniac surfers. There are so many beautiful big waves, especially suited for body surfing......
La Union Longboard Cup '99
Now, there are many longboarders who love to surf in La Union. Every year of the surf season, they gather here like a cult and enjoy surfing together, with some of the regulars coming from other countries. The origin of this longboard event has been planned way back in 1997. In one of the "big" contests that year, all of the surfers who participated helped to make the event an astounding success. The crowds and the big competitors came but the tournament director's whims became too tight that we felt a leash has been tied round our necks. After the event got finished, everybody felt something different. Many thought the easy and relaxed style of surfing could have been a better option. Surfing, in the first place, is an expression of freedom. Together with the local surfers, we arrived at a decision to hold the contests on our own so that we could do whatever we thought was for the best interest of everyone. After a year & half, our plan came thru.
Kazuo Akinaga and Todd Mazur worked hard and did the sundry jobs for the event.If it were not for these hardworking men, we could not have held the event, which was a very big success.
The aim of this event was to further the spirit of friendship between the longboard riders of the Philippines and the world and with the look on everyone's faces, the event achieved its goal.
The date of the contest was decided with reference to Akinaga's memo. During the past four years, Akinaga recorded the conditions of the waves in front of his house in Urbiztondo, San Juan, La Union. In his memo, we decided statistically to do the event by the end of January, the best date under his logs.
Probably under the influence of the El Nino or La Nina, the three to five-foot waves looked very good every day for almost two months before the event. Even the spot in Car-rille would explode many times. But everything became a dumper the week before the event was to take place. The waves became flat, completely nothing.
Suddenly, it was like a magic! On the day of the event, I woke up with the strong sound of the wave early in the morning and I saw a line up of swells. Even if the waves were not so big , it was still good enough for the competition.
We used the Yokohama Surfing Club house as the main judges' stand. This house was the best spot for the judges' stand because it is located infront of the point. I just got this place one month before and the renovation is still ongoing. I had to make a veranda with a roof for the judges in a hurry and luckily we finished it on time!
The event went easy and smooth with the natural charm of La Union in the backdrop. The tournament was competitive enough but it did not look like a competition to many as everybody just enjoyed, relaxed, surfed and surfed. The two to three-foot waves were very calm and was good for longboard competition. In the afternoon, a slight wind started to blow and the face of the waves became rough but was still ideal for the contest.
In the Filipino class, many locals from La Union and other places joined. Ian Saguan and Luky Landrigan topped the event. Despite having to get the feeling of riding a longboard for only one month prior to the event, the immense talents of these two surfers easily got noticed. Luky showed good form as he rode with ease on hang-fives. But Ian was just outstanding and at the same time calculating and careful. Saguan completed a deep bottom turn, cut back and nose ride maneuvers and I just got awed by his skills. I see the potential of this young lad as a future longboard world beater even as his short board skills have been his strong suit.
In the actual competition, Ian appeared to have interfered with one of Luky's waves and got deductions for it. But head judge "Chu" told me later that despite of the infraction, Ian's score was just too high and with the points deduction, Ian was still proclaimed champion by a mile. Amazing...!
The International class finals was truly an exciting thing to watch, what with the two Australians crowding it for a one-two finish and a Guamenian taking third place.
Joe, from Guam, showed an elegant and classic style while the Australians' powerful hotdog rides appeared like they were handling short boards. It was quite a sight seeing these guys handle nine-foot long boards with relative ease. (Note 3)
The competitors from the Beginners and Ladies classes were all YSS students. Actually, these events were planned to be events for the "Yokohama Cup", but we decided to merge these classes into one event which was later named the "La Union Longboard Open".
We changed the venue of these classes to the beach next to the Monaliza point for safety reasons. But during the competition proper, the beach break was a dumper and for beginners, it was quite a challenge. As their instructor, I admired the courage of my students in riding these kinds of waves.
Mark Serhbrock of Germany won the Beginners class. He just started taking YSS lessons in Daet last May and his progress was quite amazing. Like many others who took lessons, Mark had a love-at-first-ride with this sport. Now, he rented a house in a beach front in La Union and almost every weekend he goes to La Union to surf, coming all the way from Manila.
The first Longboard Ladies champion was Bernice Arcenas. She studied surfing only last January thru the YSS, and she likewise got addicted to surfing. Like Mark, she travels to La Union almost every weekend. The distance from Manila to La Union has never been a hindrance. Quoting Bernice: "I have tried almost everything before. Scuba diving is nice but it is a totally different sport. I find jetskiing too mechanical. I have gone mountain climbing, played football, used to indulge in tennis and badminton, but nothing beats surfing."
The event organizers were all longboarders who loved to surf in La Union. Hiroshi Yokohama, Manila; Angee Dames, Guam; David O' Donnell, Australia; Todd Mazur, La Union and contest director is Kazuo Akinaga, La Union.
Major sponsors are Yokohama Surfing School, La Union Surf Resort, Tribz Ocean Warriors, Cormorant Pine Co., which all are owned by surfers.Many other people had helped us organize the event. The La Union Provincial Governor's office donated the trophies for the International class & the Filipino class and the event flag was donated by the San Juan, La Union Rotary Club with Joseph Dumuk, San Juan rotary club leader, coordinating with these offices. Also, the Begginers and Ladies class trophies were presented and given by the Yokohama Surfing School. The Filipino Class champion was awarded a surfboard by Masakazu Suzuki (Mellow Surfboard of Tokyo).
The Triple Crown in Hawaii is the biggest event in the surfing world. Fred Williamson of the USA, a former triple crown President, came to watch and judge the competition upon the invitation of his long-time friend, Mr. Yokohama. "Very nice contest and successful. I love this kind of atmosphere," said Williamson, who promised to join and compete in the contest next year.
The other judges included Angee Dames of Guam and Carl Shaper of Australia, with Tsuyoshi "Chu" Takahashi, Rash of Japan as head judge.
And the party, not only did Todd offer his place, he and his wife Arlene prepared a sumptuous dinner. Masarap! (Meaning, very delicious.) The event culminated with fireworks and bonfire by the beach.
At the bonfire, everybody gathered and we talked under the southern cross until mid-night. Joe said: "This place is so nice, I don't like to return home". Joe also told me that he wanted to join the Yokohama Surfing Club (YSC) but I said he has to take YSS lessons first.
The next day, with everybody packing their things, the waves were still breaking gently and gracefully. San Juan's beach has remained quiet and peaceful and it will forever be a sanctuary...our Blue Heaven.
International class
1. Robert Harris, Australia
2. John Harris, Australia
3. Joseph Villatora, Guam
Filipino Class
1. Ian Saguan
2. Luky Landrigan
3. Allan Cabanala
Beginners class
1. Mark Serhbrock, Germany
2. John Lupera, Philippines
3. Miguel Azcuna, Philippines
Ladies class
1. Bernice Arcenas
2. Catherine Sacdalan
3. Zsa-Zsa Syquia
Note:
1. Besides Siargao, one can check out Catanduanes for its virgin and empty waves.
2. This measurement is counted from the backside of the wave. This is the Hawaiian style of measuring. Hawaiians have the tendency to always measure things small. The Australian style of measurement starts from the front side of the wave (crest), to the bottom. The disparity would account to about three times more than the Hawaiian's. So when the Hawaiians tell you that the waves are "flat," don't believe them.
3. The Longboard contest should be from 9ft up. Official measurement on surfboards are taken before the contest. Buffalo's big board contest in Hawaii requires competitors to ride 12-foot boards or longer...